Fashion's Waning Optimism

Is fashion's eternal optimism waning? Not for many years has the colour - or lack thereof - black been so prevalent in fashion month's autumn/winter collections.

The past few seasons have been full of headache-inducing brights, attempting to convince us that this will be the year the economic climate improves. "You'll be spending your money on me before the season's out!", screamed the yellow Versace mini dress. "Distract yourself from your money woes with our highlighter hues!", came the cry from Christopher Kane's neon army. Even this season's pastels are encouraging us to overindulge on their sickly sweetness, like when you've eaten an entire bag of Haribo Starmix in under a minute and you fear to move in case you see them again (... just me then?).

This autumn/winter show season designers have realised that escaping the recession will be a long, hard slog, after the Bank of England predicted a "slow and uncertain" 2012 (The Guardian, 2012). Almost every collection contained at least one all-black outfit - from Prada's uncharacteristic sombre silhouettes, to Versace's return to their former vampy glory, and Alexander McQueen's hairy mammoths.

One thing is for certain: the textures are varied, and the textiles are luxurious. These designers are not playing it entirely safe, not just yet.

Collage by me, images from style.com

I Want Candy!

Although we are only nine days into spring/summer 2012 (if the glossy magazine's advertising is anything to go by) I am already crazy about candy-coloured outfits.

For me, it began with the delicious Louis Vuitton campaign; Kati Nescher and Daria Strokous in their Sundae best.




Then I found model heavyweights Frida Gustavsson and Lindsay Wixson hanging about on Brighton beach for Mulberry, with some pretty awesome oversized Brighton Rock.




Finally, as if that wasn't enough to send me into a sugar coma, this season's Vogue Collections features a double page spread of lovely, Loveheart-shaded goodness..




I was craving to create a moodboard that looked good enough to eat!






One valiant fashionista attempted to style the look using items of her own, which proved difficult as her summer wardrobe was bursting with last summer's brights. One part Parma Violet to another part Refresher, it's a good start.. but maybe for now stick to Rainbow Drop nails.

Wearing Resort 2012 Trends

Over the past couple of days the weather has changed drastically in Manchester; there's been sleet, snow, hail, and, of course, buckets of rain. Stuck inside in my dressing gown with the heating on, my mind wandered to warmer, balmier climes, ones where I don't have to wear ten layers just to leave the house.

Just as well, then, the Resort collections have hit the shops this week, most notably at net-a-porter. Resort (or Cruise) collections used to be only for the wealthy who needed summery clothing for their January-long jaunts in the Carribbean. No longer just the "bit inbetween", in recent years Resort has taken on an importance of its own - helped, I'm sure, by the rise of social media, blogging, and the ridiculous pace the fashion industry now moves at.

A whopping 200 designers created Resort collections this year, including newbies-but-goodies Prabal Gurung, Erdem, Preen, and Proenza Schouler.

I like to try a couple of these trends out to ease myself into the new season, so I picked out a few of my favourite Resort 2012 trends and styled them as winter-ready daywear.

Tailored pale yellow was shown at Thakoon, Stella McCartney, and Pucci as strong tailoring mixed with white shirts and neutral accessories. For winter just wear one yellow element and team with black or neutrals for a striking look.

All-over prints were at 3.1 Philip Lim, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci. These pyjama-like looks are styled very simply, the print being the focus of the outfit. Wear in this winter's colours and prints.

White lace was popular with Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Alberta Ferretti. These houses all showed frothy, maxi-length confections, which would be impossible to wear in rainy Manchester. Style it out with a shorter-length tunic with warm leather trousers.

These looks were all styled with items from my existing wardrobe. The one trend that evades me is the boxy waistcoat, shown here at Balenciaga (I'm missing the visor too, but I'll pick one of those up on my next visit to Blackpool beach).

If I were to add any piece to my wardrobe to style this trend, it would definitely be the Barneys Vintage asymmetric vintage gilet from IL2L.com; the perfect cover-up for Resort and beyond.

It's also a Vogue's Online Fashion Week pick; check the coverage for this online event here to find out about special offers and competitions. You can even win a Lanvin bag, just by tweeting your #todayimwearing!

If you're in need of more of a fashion fix, the pre-Fall collections are being shown this week. Lap it up, you trend-hungry fashionistas!

All runway images from style.com

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012 Trend Round-Up

We are now well on our way into London Fashion Week, but as we all know, the different weeks represent different moods and trends. So, just for you, dear readers, I watched as many shows as I could without completely losing my mind (I was close, though, as my boyfriend will testify) to write you a little New York-specific trend report. Whether I do it for the next three weeks remains to be seen; it depends on the stability of my sanity and the amount of uni work I have to do.


Anyway, without further adieu, here are what I deem to be the key shapes, fabrics, and colours of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012.


KEY SHAPES

The Peplum

L-R Jason Wu, Thakoon, Cushnie et Ochs

Certainly the most prevalent silhouette in NYFW featured a peplum. This cute little detail was also featured at Marc by Marc Jacobs and Rodarte. Perfect for adding curves and also hiding any lumps and bumps in the diffcult hip area, this will be a wardrobe saviour for us all next Spring.


Dropped & Low Waists


L-R Reed Krakoff, Theyskens’ Theory, Tommy Hilfiger

Has high-waist fatigue finally set in for designers? It will be interesting to me to learn how to style a low waist, both in dress and trouser form, in a chic way. The last time this rise was in fashion was when I was a skinny teenager, without a love handle to my name. I may leave this look for sixteen-year-old models, but you may want to experiment with a dropped waist next season.

Cut-out areas

L-R BCBG Max Azria, Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung

Great news for those of us who don’t have a figure like Anna Selezneva (far right, in Prabal Gurung); yeah, you can show your entire midriff, as at Proenza Schouler. Or you can pick your favourite (or most toned) body part, and show it off. Cold shoulder, anyone?


Styling Notes
A couple more bits that didn’t merit their own section, but are still important in the scheme of things… Blouses are still buttoned up high, and the more interesting the collar, the better. Keep your tailoring fluid and long-lined: an essential item next Spring will be a long-line blazer, as at The Row and 3.1 Philip Lim. Your summer shower cover-up? A hooded parka. Even Victoria Beckham got in on the act.

KEY FABRICS

Mesh

L-R Alexander Wang, Theyskens’ Theory, Diane von Furstenberg

Texture was added to many looks in New York by the use of mesh panels. If you don’t fancy going for the teen goth look, work mesh accents, like the pockets at Alexander Wang. (Bit of a tangent, but mad props to one of my favourite models, Julia Nobis – far right – for walking so many shows so far this season. You go!)

Leather

L-R rag & bone, Altuzarra, Michael Kors

Now seemingly perennial, leather was a big fabric for this season. Keep your eyes peeled: it’s now so fluid and buttersoft, you may visually mistake it for silk. There’s no need to dress top-to-toe in leather; just wear a simple shift with leather detailing, like at Altuzarra.

Shiny

L-R Theyskens’ Theory, Peter Som, DKNY

You can wear your trousers like a mirror, as at Theory, or have a chic sheen to your skirt, like DKNY. Add a little texture to your outfit by means of a shiny fabric, and you’ll be bang on trend for next Spring.

Styling Notes
As mentioned earlier, peek-a-boo cut-outs will be big, but if you aren’t feeling so confident, cover them with a sheer fabric. Crochet is totally OK; even better if you can add a tasselled detail to swing from the hemline.

KEY COLOURS

I could talk about colours. I could easily talk about them for a very long time, as I’m a big fan of them. However, I think the best way to represent the colours of New York spring/summer 2012 is with this nifty image I (painstakingly) made…

Honourable Mentions

I couldn’t write a NYFW S/S 2012 trend report without recommending you check out the entire Preen collection. Gorgeous ice-cream pastel shades all mixed together in squares, checks, and origami folds. It represents everything that NYFW was: chic, understated, whilst remaining colourful and interesting, with some fabulous design details.



Finally, I had to share with you the gorgeous Theyskens’ Theory ballgown. Theory has remained in the fashion editors’ lust-list ever since the amazing Olivier Theyskens took the reins in October 2010. I’m not sure what I loved so much about this piece, maybe it was just so unexpected after the masculine tailoring of the rest of the collection. If I were an A-lister, I’d definitely consider this for a red carpet event.






I hope you enjoyed this report as much as I enjoyed making it! All images are courtesy of style.com. If you would like to use any of it, I’d really appreciate it if you’d credit me, and maybe drop me an email.